Dear all
My Bantam is doing my head in.
Got it running and MOt'd.
But wouldn't pull unless the choke was on.
So
Today I tried raising the needle (3rd groove down) and ensured there was no air
leak at the carb joint.
Bike for some reason is now very hard to start,
got it running and went for a ride, again won't pull unless there is some choke,
and it dies/bogs down at anything over about 1/2 throttle in any gear.
Rather like it is running rich and weak???
Plug looks perfect though, rich biscuit brown!
I have rebuilt the engine so not/very unlikely to be the crank seals.
I haven't cleaned/de-coked the exhaust, is this a likely suspect?
I suspect the timing isn't right either hence poor starting, do Bantams randomly
re-time themselves.
Is the condenser likely to be at fault?
Any help or sympathy gratefully accepted!
Jon
If its anything like on my Homda CM125 it was remove the shroud around the barrell top, remove the headlight, undo two bolts and a multiplug. Looked & sounds a lot more daunting than it was. (needed changing, mounting bots had broken & previous owner had used mastic to 'goo' it into place, fine but it rotated the switch rather than turning off/on)
Hope this helps
Sue
From: "andy@..." <andy@...> To: BSABantam@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sat, 21 November, 2009 14:03:40 Subject: [BSA Bantam] How to Find Manuals for Obscure Bikes.
BSA manuals are probably easy to find, but before my son gets to work on my BSA C15, he needs to pass his test, and to do that, he needs to change the ignition-key barrel on his Yamaha SR125/ 3MW2 (1991).
Being Japanese, this looks like a major task. He can't find any manuals for it on the Internet - can anyone here tell us where to look?
Not sure if you will find what you are looking for in here. Just
have a look at some of the Yam models, there may be similarities between the
models. Can’t remember if you have to register.
From: BSABantam@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:BSABantam@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of andy@... Sent: 21 November 2009 14:04 To: BSABantam@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BSA Bantam] How to Find Manuals for Obscure Bikes.
BSA manuals are probably easy to find, but
before my son gets to work on my BSA C15, he needs to pass his test, and to do
that, he needs to change the ignition-key barrel on his Yamaha SR125/ 3MW2
(1991).
Being Japanese, this looks like a major task. He can't find any manuals for it
on the Internet - can anyone here tell us where to look?
Many thanks,
Andy Morley
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07:47:00
BSA manuals are probably easy to find, but before my son gets to work on my BSA
C15, he needs to pass his test, and to do that, he needs to change the
ignition-key barrel on his Yamaha SR125/ 3MW2 (1991).
Being Japanese, this looks like a major task. He can't find any manuals for it
on the Internet - can anyone here tell us where to look?
Many thanks,
Andy Morley
My old Bantam D5 petrol tank is rusty and so in need of sealing or replacing.
Can anyone advise on other bantam tanks that will fit a D5 or a suitable sealant
for my rusty tank.
Thanks for any advice, Pat
Folks,
Has anyone out there got a D1 with no cream panels on the tank? My '54 D1
plunger has a plain green tank, just like the one on the first edition of Jeff
Clew's Haynes manual.
Any idea what this might mean? Coincidence? No cream paint in the tin?
Simon
A Bantam engine I bought on ebay was highly polished throughout and I seriously thought about fitting it to one of my frames, on stripping it down to renew seals etc I found damage to one crankcase half, wanting to keep the polished state of the rest i considered replacing the damaged half and trying to get the same high standard of finish myself- imagine my suprise to find that the small stamped on numbers on bottom edge of cases bore no relationship to one another at all! every single number was different. yes, it's all been done before! David.
Hi,
My bantam is for sale. i bought it 3 months back, and have decided i
would rather stick to my royal enfield, and ned the space.
it is a d14, 1968, good running order, 11 months tax and mot.
basically in good condition, no known problems, starts every time and
pulls hard.
the bike is at my home on the isle of wight.
£600.
cheers,
richard
Been raking through some of my spares, (this is the reason i'm asking so many
different questions lately), but last night i came across an old D7 frame that
looked as though it has had a rough time around the headstock as the welding
looked a bit rough. Using a straight edge along the top tube towards the
headstock, the tube seems to bend slightly (2mm) downwards. According to the
manual this indicates a bent frame top tube, all well and good. That is until i
compared with others, and a lot of them seem to have this. i even looked on the
web for photos etc. of bantam frames and a lot of them have this slight bend.
Has any one come across this before and is this the reason that later on during
D14 they were double plated? Anyone care to check theirs ? (if i can work out
how to post photos i will).
sounds as if it could be worth a try. Thanks.
--- In BSABantam@yahoogroups.com, Tom Churchill <TomC@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Philip
> I would bolt the two halves together and use a straight edge on the
> surface that the main bearings seat on to check the alinement of the two
> sides. I would think that you could get away with a little misalinement.
> TomC in Ohio
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 2:38 PM, Philip <philiphodgson4@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I was wondering what the effect would be of using a pair of crankcases with
> > different numbers?
> > BSA must have machined them as a pair for some reason. I just wondered if
> > anyone has tried it, as i have an unmatched pair sitting doing nothing.
> >
>
--- In BSABantam@yahoogroups.com, STEPHEN MARTIN <handchange@...> wrote:
>
> A pal of mine, who has a collection of 70's and 80's classic Honda machines,
drains his tanks and removes them, then swills them with neat oil and drains
them keeping them in the house (outhouse I hope). I agree with his ideas
on thin walled Japanese tanks, especially 4 stroke, where they easily become
rotten over years.
modern petrol is truly awful stuff
with my Jap bikes i drain the petrol out of the tank and then fill to the brim
with diesel for the winter,
Brit bikes are made of sterner stuff so i just drain them in the summer and
refill with fresh petrol.
Hi Philip     I would bolt the two halves together and use a straight edge on the surface that the main bearings seat on to check the alinement of the two sides. I would think that you could get away with a little misalinement.
         TomC in Ohio
I was wondering what the effect would be of using a pair of crankcases with different numbers?
BSA must have machined them as a pair for some reason. I just wondered if anyone has tried it, as i have an unmatched pair sitting doing nothing.
A pal of mine, who has a collection of 70's and 80's classic Honda machines, drains his tanks and removes them, then swills them with neat oil and drains them keeping them in the house (outhouse I hope). I agree with his ideas on thin walled Japanese tanks, especially 4 stroke, where they easily become rotten over years. For me its fill the tank with mixture and try not to leave much space. It may mean draining the tank if its not used for many months, as modern unleaded loses its top notes quickly and the bike may become awkward to start after its slumber. My sisters D14 does not like old juice at all, whereas my 1950 D1 Comp seems happy with any old sweet mix. Today's fuel has a shelf or tank life of only 2 weeks in top form. Line boring problems are the main problem with unmatched cases and I cringe when I see sets split
and offered on Ebay. They were machined together and should therefore stay as a unit. Bearing alignment problems and case location pegs can put stresses on crank and main/lay shafts. Did learn a few things at Rolls, although I still can't hear the dashboard clock above the engine on the Bantam. Regards Steve
--- On Mon, 9/11/09, pondside@... <pondside@...> wrote:
From: pondside@... <pondside@...> Subject: [BSA Bantam] Effect of using unmatched crankcases? To: BSABantam@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, 9 November, 2009, 19:48
Well, all my crankcases have had the number on the left side so putting 2 lefts together should be interesting!
Seriously, has anyone any thoughts on wether it is better to drain a petrol tank & let the air circulate & rust develop or leave the fuel in & let the rust develop? I would mix the old fuel with fresh in springtime of course. Les (D1 & D10)
Well, all my crankcases have had the number on the left side so putting 2 lefts together should be interesting!
Seriously, has anyone any thoughts on wether it is better to drain a petrol tank & let the air circulate & rust develop or leave the fuel in & let the rust develop? I would mix the old fuel with fresh in springtime of course. Les (D1 & D10)
I was wondering what the effect would be of using a pair of crankcases with
different numbers?
BSA must have machined them as a pair for some reason. I just wondered if
anyone has tried it, as i have an unmatched pair sitting doing nothing.
What tire's would you mount on your D14/4 Supreme Bantam?
Why? And where would you get them?
Would you mount 18" x 2,75 front and a 18"x3,00 in back?
The purpose is 60% road lane's but 40% would be gravel.
http://www.50cc.eu/plaatjes-onderd/3840.jpg <- this is what i came up with
now...
Thanks,
Ruben,
http://bsabantam.blogspot.com/
Hi,
Have a D7 side panel with the oval crossed arms & below this is Made in England.
Is this correct for a 1961 D7 & is it the same on the left & right panels.