Being an "Hairy old git" I can tell you that we did all of that in the fifties and sixties, and that my 125 Bantam did "nearly 60" standard, and it out-performed a friends Dominator with ease after working on it.

I also used the same techniques on an NSU Quickly, got that to nearly 50, also ran one on paraffin, but that's another story.

David.

 

 

Thanks! Looks great!



--- In BSABantam@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <paulg@...> wrote:
>
> MotorCycling January 7th and 14th 1954 (6 pages) and MotorCycling June 28th
> 1956 (3 pages)
>
> I have uploaded these articles to a web page:
>
>
>
> http://www.speed-trap.co.uk/GTG/bsabantamtuning.htm
>
>
>
> They are large files at a resolution that can be printed out nicely, so will
> be slow to load for anyone still on a dialup connection.
>
>
>
> Hope they are of interest.
>
>
>
> Paul.
>

Thanks - apparently we do need to take the headlight off.

But it looks daunting enough to make me think that a manual would be a good idea
if we can find one!

--- In BSABantam@yahoogroups.com, sue creasey <toad.lett@...> wrote:
>
> If its anything like on my Homda CM125 it was remove the shroud around the
barrell top, remove the headlight, undo two bolts and a multiplug. Looked &
sounds a lot more daunting than it was. (needed changing, mounting bots had
broken & previous owner had used mastic to 'goo' it into place, fine but it
rotated the switch rather than turning off/on)
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Sue
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: "andy@..." <andy@...>
> To: BSABantam@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sat, 21 November, 2009 14:03:40
> Subject: [BSA Bantam] How to Find Manuals for Obscure Bikes.
>
>  
> BSA manuals are probably easy to find, but before my son gets to work on my
BSA C15, he needs to pass his test, and to do that, he needs to change the
ignition-key barrel on his Yamaha SR125/ 3MW2 (1991).
>
> Being Japanese, this looks like a major task. He can't find any manuals for it
on the Internet - can anyone here tell us where to look?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Andy Morley
>

Many thanks for this George.  We're checking it out.

Andy Morley

--- In BSABantam@yahoogroups.com, "george" <george.deaney@...> wrote:
>
> Andy,
>
> Not sure if you will find what you are looking for in here. Just have a look
> at some of the Yam models, there may be similarities between the models.
> Can't remember if you have to register.
>
>
>
> http://auto-moto.electromaniacs.com/category.php?id=1
>
>
>
> George
>
>
>
> From: BSABantam@yahoogroups.com [mailto:BSABantam@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
> Of andy@...
> Sent: 21 November 2009 14:04
> To: BSABantam@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [BSA Bantam] How to Find Manuals for Obscure Bikes.
>
>
>
>
>
> BSA manuals are probably easy to find, but before my son gets to work on my
> BSA C15, he needs to pass his test, and to do that, he needs to change the
> ignition-key barrel on his Yamaha SR125/ 3MW2 (1991).
>
> Being Japanese, this looks like a major task. He can't find any manuals for
> it on the Internet - can anyone here tell us where to look?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Andy Morley
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 9.0.707 / Virus Database: 270.14.76/2517 - Release Date: 11/21/09
> 07:47:00
>

In the BSA instruction book it looks like the clutch and brake (and possibly
throttle) control cables go through the holes in the D7 nacelle (with a single
switch). Is that right? Has anyone got a picture? The front brake cable on mine
is routed really awkwardly but putting it through the nacelle doesn't look much
better.

A friend has A D14 (I believe) , He rang me and gave me a vague story, his bike
has had the engine rebuilt , it started , then the revs just slowly got faster
and faster (cause unknown!ideas please?)
He had the engine dismantled again and some tightness loosened off ? (Told you
it was vague).
  Before the engine was put in the frame it was put into gear , when in the frame
and clutch cable attached the gear leaver had free movement up and down but
unable to change out of the gear it's in!
He has asked me to look at it!! I could try process of elimination but thought
you lot might have some pointers? I should know more on Sunday when he brings
the bike.

Martyn

I agree with what you say,there must be some tolerance in the fit and to allow
for wear. I have quite a lot of spare bits that would other wise be chucked in
the scrap bin so its got to be worth a try.  I remember reading that barrels and
heads were matched to each other suggesting that there must be some leeway.

--- In BSABantam@yahoogroups.com, "ensemble887828" <jd.holt@...> wrote:
>
> I did it successfully on my first Bantam , a D14, but I think that was luck
rather than judgement.  It appeared to be a good fit by eye (no light coming
through) without any machining but as I say, it might have just been lucky.
>
> --- In BSABantam@yahoogroups.com, "Philip" <philiphodgson4@> wrote:
> >
> > I was wondering what the effect would be of using a pair of crankcases with
different numbers?
> >  BSA must have machined them as a pair for some reason.  I just wondered if
anyone has tried it, as i have an unmatched pair sitting doing nothing.
> >
>

I did it successfully on my first Bantam , a D14, but I think that was luck
rather than judgement.  It appeared to be a good fit by eye (no light coming
through) without any machining but as I say, it might have just been lucky.

--- In BSABantam@yahoogroups.com, "Philip" <philiphodgson4@...> wrote:
>
> I was wondering what the effect would be of using a pair of crankcases with
different numbers?
>  BSA must have machined them as a pair for some reason.  I just wondered if
anyone has tried it, as i have an unmatched pair sitting doing nothing.
>

Chris

Many many thanks for taking the time to respond so fully. I tried your
suggestion and using a multimeter I have a full circuit between the points post
and the casing when the points are open. Aha I thought and replaced the fiber
washers for plastic to have the same situation again with the plastic washer. I
then removed the points post to ensure it didnt have anything sticking in the
side of it and bridging to the casing - nothing. I removed the condenser incase
this was shorting and the same - full circuit. So I tried removing the
points/points post from the equation and with the ign coil attached to the
stator and its other wire that would normally connect to the points post
floating in free air (attached to nothing) - when I put a meter on it and to the
casing I have a full circuit - which I find very confusing! I tried another coil
and the same.

All suggestions very welcome and again thank you Chris for help/reply.


--- In BSABantam@yahoogroups.com, chris gamble <classicglory@...> wrote:
>
> Before we go through all the other components....
>
> Make sure the points are OPEN and put a multimeter set to OHMS between the
> screw on the top of the points post (which also has the ignition coil
> connection) and the engine\magneto housing.
>
> There should be ZERO connectivity between them. Otherwise the coil will not
> fire.
>
> It is common for the insultation for the points post to be compromised by
> non-standard screws which are too long and the use of metal washers.
>
> On all the units I have rebuilt, I get a capped plastic gutter washer, cut
> the cap off and fit this to the back of the magneto under the points post.
> This fully isolates the post from the magneto housing. I believe that fibre
> washers were originally used but are not that effective, especially if they
> get oil soaked.
>
> Check this out first and if it is ok, let me know and we will examine each
> other component in turn.
>
> Regards
>
> CG.
>
> 2009/11/24 crashburnfly <paulg@...>
>
> >
> >
> > Afternoon, this is my first post on the list and I hope that one of the
> > groups experts can assist. I have been riding bikes for 30 years – mostly
> > modern stuff and have pulled my father's one owner from new D1 out of the
> > proverbial shed and dusted it off. All seems well with it apart from getting
> > a spark.
> >
> > My understanding of how the AC Geni mag should work is:
> > Voltage is induced in primary coil and earths until points open and circuit
> > is broken this then sends/induces voltage into the secondary coil (in the
> > ignition coil) which acts as a transformer to take the low voltage of the
> > primary and increases the voltage up to 5,000+ volts to get it to HT levels
> > and enable a spark. The ignition coil has 3 contacts on it. The black wire
> > (1) bolts to the stator and the red wire (2) connects to the back of the
> > contact breaker terminal post along with the condenser connection – the tabs
> > of both of these are both clear of the case against the insulating washer.
> > With the points closed the primary coil earths and when the contact opens it
> > breaks the circuit/earth and induces into the secondary coil and the high
> > voltage exits via the tab (3) on the side of the ignition coil and via a
> > copper tab connector into the HT lead and up to the HT cap and plug. Is this
> > correct?
> >
> > I have changed the ignition coil, points and condenser and still no sign of
> > a spark (all from C&D so should be OK). The sections in the mag are still
> > strongly magnetised. I have connected another lead to the coil tab (3) and
> > still no spark.
> >
> > Assuming the above is correct then I would like to test the ignition coil
> > and condenser to ensure that they are OK. Any suggestions for testing them
> > standalone? If the above is correct then if I pass say 9volts across the
> > primary coil I should get many times this out of the secondary coil? How
> > would I test the condenser?
> > I have put up a few pics of the assembly at:
> >
> > http://www.speed-trap.co.uk/GTG/bantam.htm
> >
> > All and any suggestions very welcome as the Green Meanie is ready to roll
> > once I get a spark.
> >
> > Best regards
> >
> > Paul
> > Midhurst, UK.
> >
> >
> >
>

Afternoon, this is my first post on the list and I hope that one of the groups
experts can assist. I have been riding bikes for 30 years – mostly modern stuff
and have pulled my father's one owner from new D1 out of the proverbial shed and
dusted it off. All seems well with it apart from getting a spark.

My understanding of how the AC Geni mag should work is:
Voltage is induced in primary coil and earths until points open and circuit is
broken this then sends/induces voltage into the secondary coil (in the ignition
coil) which acts as a transformer to take the low voltage of the primary and
increases the voltage up to 5,000+ volts to get it to HT levels and enable a
spark. The ignition coil has 3 contacts on it. The black wire (1) bolts to the
stator and the red wire (2) connects to the back of the contact breaker terminal
post along with the condenser connection – the tabs of both of these are both
clear of the case against the insulating washer. With the points closed the
primary coil earths and when the contact opens it breaks the circuit/earth and
induces into the secondary coil and the high voltage exits via the tab (3) on
the side of the ignition coil and via a copper tab connector into the HT lead
and up to the HT cap and plug. Is this correct?

I have changed the ignition coil, points and condenser and still no sign of a
spark (all from C&D so should be OK). The sections in the mag are still strongly
magnetised. I have connected another lead to the coil tab (3) and still no
spark.

Assuming the above is correct then I would like to test the ignition coil and
condenser to ensure that they are OK. Any suggestions for testing them
standalone? If the above is correct then if I pass say 9volts across the primary
coil I should get many times this out of the secondary coil? How would I test
the condenser?
I have put up a few pics of the assembly at:

http://www.speed-trap.co.uk/GTG/bantam.htm

All and any suggestions very welcome as the Green Meanie is ready to roll once I
get a spark.

Best regards

Paul
Midhurst, UK.

Dear all

My Bantam is doing my head in.

Got it running and MOt'd.
But wouldn't pull unless the choke was on.
So
Today I tried raising the needle (3rd groove down) and ensured there was no air
leak at the carb joint.

Bike for some reason is now very hard to start,
got it running and went for a ride, again won't pull unless there is some choke,
and it dies/bogs down at anything over about 1/2 throttle in any gear.
Rather like it is running rich and weak???

Plug looks perfect though, rich biscuit brown!

I have rebuilt the engine so not/very unlikely to be the crank seals.

I haven't cleaned/de-coked the exhaust, is this a likely suspect?

I suspect the timing isn't right either hence poor starting, do Bantams randomly
re-time themselves.
Is the condenser likely to be at fault?

Any help or sympathy gratefully accepted!

Jon

BSA manuals are probably easy to find, but before my son gets to work on my BSA
C15, he needs to pass his test, and to do that, he needs to change the
ignition-key barrel on his Yamaha SR125/ 3MW2  (1991).

Being Japanese, this looks like a major task.  He can't find any manuals for it
on the Internet - can anyone here tell us where to look?

Many thanks,

Andy Morley

My old Bantam D5 petrol tank is rusty and so in need of sealing or replacing. 
Can anyone advise on other bantam tanks that will fit a D5 or a suitable sealant
for my rusty tank.
Thanks for any advice, Pat

who was it after a Wipac generator, there is one on Ebay
http://preview.tinyurl.com/ygjeq7p

i hasten to add that i am NOT the seller

Mike
http://bsanotrun.angelfire.com/

Folks,

Has anyone out there got a D1 with no cream panels on the tank? My '54 D1
plunger has a plain green tank, just like the one on the first edition of Jeff
Clew's Haynes manual.

Any idea what this might mean? Coincidence? No cream paint in the tin?

Simon