i have a 78 pacer that needs a new rack there are two sizes 13/16 and 3/4 i want to find out what size it is without taking off the rack because i need to...
This isn't far from me at all. If anyone is seriously interested, but wants to see it in person, I could see if I could check out the car for you. Just let me...
Note that the seller claims original paint, but the driver's door has been replaced. Underhood appears to be white, except the passenger fender, but the...
I beleive the early style was the 13/16 up to late 76 or early 77, later it got smaller and went to 3/4. you shoudl have the later style. there is a way to...
Good suggestion, vacuum booster leaks are very often over looked. Whenever you have the master cylinder removed from the booster you should check for evidence...
Good suggestion, vacuum booster leaks are very often over looked. Whenever you have the master cylinder removed from the booster you should check for evidence...
I received a repsonse from someone for this emblem, and when I replied 2x they came back undeliverable. mailbox canceled. does anyone recognize this name or...
There's another forum? L. ... have aleak on the manifold , I suspect you have a rough idle too.. when you press on the brake(PB) it pulls vacuum away.. Check...
I just wanted to add as a reminder that you can't go by the model year. My '76 Pacer was apparently made at the end of the model year (April '76, I think), and...
Diane, You are correct except the newer Pacers do not have that trouble. All cars after '76 have the same fittings for the Rack hook ups. I also have the odd ...
Actually, the rack and pinion assembly was a mid-year change in 1977. All '75-76 got the early style (13/16"); all 78-80 got the late style (7/8"). However,...
EAST L.A.?????? Am surprised her English is as good as it is LOL! Any mechanic working on her car in that area had better be wearing a bullet proof vest. ...
I know I would appreciate it if you could keep your insensitive remarks in check as this is a public forum and you might be insulting those of us who actually ...
What I spoke is the truth...that is a VERY BAD AREA. Sorry if you have to live there. "Jon E." <fuldamobil@...> wrote: I know I would appreciate it if...
i'm a young fan of pacers. however, my knowledge of motors is minimal. my husband and i have only ever had one car which we have yet to have any trouble out...
I'll keep this short. Since you and your hubby are both in school and don't really have the disposable income it would take to properly fix up a car, I would ...
I have to agree with Joe... First off, from the description, the price is nothing to get excited about. Second is the fact of the expense involved with fixing...
we should have steady income soon though. he graduates with a degree in physics this spring. so i would be able to fix it within the next year or two. right...
With the mechanical problems as they are,,, this might be a bargaining point with the owner... Tell them the expense involved with getting it roadworthy and...
i plan on trying to get him to lower the price. i did forget to check underneath the car though. thanks. i need to remember to take a flashlight next time....
i plan on trying to get him to lower the price. i did forget to check underneath the car though. thanks. i need to remember to take a flashlight next time....
I'd be concerned about the rust replacement of any sheet metal requires some fairy heavy gauge steel, and most locations where rust appears are pretty...
I accept your apology "Jon E." <fuldamobil@...> wrote: I see. And you equate bad area with people speaking Spanish. At least my neighbors aren't racist....
The most critical rust area is at the top corners on each side of the windshield. This is the area where the upper fender supports are connected to the boxed...
Now that I've paid $100 for the rear end out of a 76 AMC Pacer Coupe and will pay to have some one replace the one with a bad pinion bearing in my 79 wagon...
