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#81477 From: "John Culiberk" <apparelplus@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:49 pm
Subject: Re: -> messages
john_culiberk
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
I hear you Joe. 5 bypasses, Wow. I can't even imagine what 1 would be like.
 
The weight loss thing is starting to get to me. Even though I sell apparel, decorated or undecorated, I have a hard time finding clothes that fit. These foreign clothing manufacturers don't make clothes for tall, fat Americans.
 
To them tall, is 5' 9" and fat is 140 pounds. Fitting a guy 6'4', 270 pounds is not easy. I finally found a place I could order from that wouldn't cost me an arm and a leg for the extra cloth. And now I'm losing weight!
 
If this keeps up, I'll need a new wardrobe.
 
John
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: -> messages

 

John,I hear ya! I'm 47,had 5 bypasses this year and I had virtually no symptoms. Lost 17 lbs of muscle that I'm working to reclaim....looks like I'm 14 yrs old wearing my Dads clothes! JZ
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 02, 2009 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: -> messages

 

Jon;
 
Sorry to hear about your health problems. This getting old is for the birds isn't it?
 
I did a CT scan October 7th and the doctor called me 2 days later, said I am developing kidney stones.
 
Went for my preop testing Friday and they found my blood sugar level to be at 471. So I spent 7 hours in the ER getting it down.
 
If I ever meet the person who said these are my golden years, I am going to kick his ass!!! The only thing golden is all the money I am paying doctors and hospitals for this better living through "chemistry".
 
Hope your feeling better and get well soon.
 
John culiberk
APPAREL PLUS
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 6:39 PM
Subject: -> messages

 

Fellow members,
Just a quick question here for someone, I had 2 more heart attacks here since Sept. 26, Was in hosp. from Oct.22 til Tues. Oct.Oct. 27 and since I got home I ave not recieved a single message from the group.  Was it disbanded while Iwas gone, or did I not really come back, or is this part of the "Great Change" in the country since the gov't and Fiat took over Chrysler?
Maybe I need to reset my language to Italian?
C'mon guys what gives.............................
 
 
Wenatchee Jon
Jon Rappuhn


#81476 From: "Daniel Daigneault" <dany527@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:26 pm
Subject: RE: -> Wiring Harness
danieldaigne...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

Carlito, Don’t want to tell what to do but, too many of us have electrical problems and they works all kinds of way to resolve these problems. Most of them take days and still they have problems. Do what I did. I spent $1200.00 purchase engine bay wiring + Dash harness + tail light harness (www.yearone.com ). It is very simple to install in 1 day and NO MORE PROBLEMS….. FINITO no more problem for the next 40 years… Just my 2 cents

Daniel, Orlando

 

 

From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of SPC Carlito US ARMY
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 3:54 AM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: -> Wiring Harness

 

 

Hello folks I've been mulling over the forms I'm glad to see that there are so many of us that own such a rare over looked breed of charger, been a mopar freak since I could remember, I bought my first true mopar while I was in Iraq last may 67 w/ 318 I have one issue that stops the ol girl from hitting the road I have no electronic power to anything but the starter and plugs I while I was on leave I was to lazy to pull out the old muliti meter and trace it down to a few grounds I know bad mechanic, but in my defense i was having a blast putting the 4wheel disk conversion on it (cant trust military town drivers even if ur going for a round the block for a Sunday drive) and a new carb and intake manifold, any who I was wondering if any of u first gen charger vets new any common simple fixes, I've been hesitant to buy a "painless" wiring harness I'm also confused on the circuit 14, 16, 18, unfortunately my service manual is still in the states has any one had better luck with any kinds of harnesses I know the charger is a unique beast when it comes to electronics (hide away head lamps, fender turn signals, not to mention the tail lamp assembly) well I appreciate any an all the help even unrelated advice, and hope to be on the road at clubs with the big boys anytime soon. Stay safe for me while I'm over here, and take care of ur babys lol


#81475 From: "SPC Carlito US ARMY" <dodgeo_boy@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 4:45 pm
Subject: Re: -> Wiring Harness
dodgeo_boy
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
I apologize for the inadequate information, few KEY things I left out, the
engine does fire up and drives just fine, battery will not keep its charge
replaced that really quick to rule that one out, once again didn't take the time
to see what what the alt was throwing out, but if its in idol for a minute and I
put it in drive, hit the gas it will quit, but it will run in idol for ever or
at least a good hour was the longest I kept it on once again didn't take the
time to yank the battery cable off, to run that quick check, oh and the brake
lights do work. Lookin to do a full resto job on the beast its in decent
condition, but other things have been neglected and show its age, yearone is
expensive and I yet to buy something from them that I haven't cheaper some were
else I think the only thing I will buy from them is a rear lens. good advice I
will get on that when I get back terry, but I honestly want to just put a new
system in it keep gremlins from poping up again later, wires that old are well
past the prime. was just thinking of buying some heavy gauge color coded wires
from the ol radio shack and replacing my self one buy one but that's a little
ridiculous and I'm sure the end connectors need something little more fresh.
appreciate all ur advice help this new info can shed lil more light on whats
really going on.

once again stay safe, and take care of ur babys

--- In 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com, "Terry" <tehoover@...> wrote:
>
> My friend, it is we who should be wishing you a safe journey and thanking
> you for your contribution!  But thank you for your concern about us!!
>
> I am a little confused about your problem but if I understand correctly you
> can crank the engine (starter works) and it will run (power to plugs) but
> nothing else works.
>
> Yes, grounds are a big issue with our cars (or almost any old cars) but that
> usually shows as "gremlins".  Total loss of power is more likely a bigger
> issue.  There are two places I would suggest you start looking.  First,
> disconnect the firewall connectors (under the hood) and clean them.  I'm
> betting you will find a lot of corrosion.  Also watch for burnt or broken
> wires at the connectors.
>
> Second, check the fuse box with a meter to see if you have 12 volts coming
> in.  If not you may have a bad capacitor on the amp gauge.
>
> Beyond that it is "hunt and peck" metering.
>
> If my assumptions are incorrect then update me and we will try again.
>
> Stay safe my frined!
>
> Terry H
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of SPC Carlito US
> ARMY
> Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 3:54 AM
> To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: -> Wiring Harness
>
>
>
>
>
> Hello folks I've been mulling over the forms I'm glad to see that there are
> so many of us that own such a rare over looked breed of charger, been a
> mopar freak since I could remember, I bought my first true mopar while I was
> in Iraq last may 67 w/ 318 I have one issue that stops the ol girl from
> hitting the road I have no electronic power to anything but the starter and
> plugs I while I was on leave I was to lazy to pull out the old muliti meter
> and trace it down to a few grounds I know bad mechanic, but in my defense i
> was having a blast putting the 4wheel disk conversion on it (cant trust
> military town drivers even if ur going for a round the block for a Sunday
> drive) and a new carb and intake manifold, any who I was wondering if any of
> u first gen charger vets new any common simple fixes, I've been hesitant to
> buy a "painless" wiring harness I'm also confused on the circuit 14, 16, 18,
> unfortunately my service manual is still in the states has any one had
> better luck with any kinds of harnesses I know the charger is a unique beast
> when it comes to electronics (hide away head lamps, fender turn signals, not
> to mention the tail lamp assembly) well I appreciate any an all the help
> even unrelated advice, and hope to be on the road at clubs with the big boys
> anytime soon. Stay safe for me while I'm over here, and take care of ur
> babys lol
>

#81474 From: "Terry" <tehoover@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 4:07 pm
Subject: RE: -> Wiring Harness
montour207
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

My friend, it is we who should be wishing you a safe journey and thanking you for your contribution!  But thank you for your concern about us!!

I am a little confused about your problem but if I understand correctly you can crank the engine (starter works) and it will run (power to plugs) but nothing else works. 

Yes, grounds are a big issue with our cars (or almost any old cars) but that usually shows as “gremlins”.  Total loss of power is more likely a bigger issue.  There are two places I would suggest you start looking.  First, disconnect the firewall connectors (under the hood) and clean them.  I’m betting you will find a lot of corrosion.  Also watch for burnt or broken wires at the connectors.

Second, check the fuse box with a meter to see if you have 12 volts coming in.  If not you may have a bad capacitor on the amp gauge. 

Beyond that it is “hunt and peck” metering.

If my assumptions are incorrect then update me and we will try again.

Stay safe my frined!

Terry H

 


From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of SPC Carlito US ARMY
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 3:54 AM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: -> Wiring Harness

 

 

Hello folks I've been mulling over the forms I'm glad to see that there are so many of us that own such a rare over looked breed of charger, been a mopar freak since I could remember, I bought my first true mopar while I was in Iraq last may 67 w/ 318 I have one issue that stops the ol girl from hitting the road I have no electronic power to anything but the starter and plugs I while I was on leave I was to lazy to pull out the old muliti meter and trace it down to a few grounds I know bad mechanic, but in my defense i was having a blast putting the 4wheel disk conversion on it (cant trust military town drivers even if ur going for a round the block for a Sunday drive) and a new carb and intake manifold, any who I was wondering if any of u first gen charger vets new any common simple fixes, I've been hesitant to buy a "painless" wiring harness I'm also confused on the circuit 14, 16, 18, unfortunately my service manual is still in the states has any one had better luck with any kinds of harnesses I know the charger is a unique beast when it comes to electronics (hide away head lamps, fender turn signals, not to mention the tail lamp assembly) well I appreciate any an all the help even unrelated advice, and hope to be on the road at clubs with the big boys anytime soon. Stay safe for me while I'm over here, and take care of ur babys lol


#81473 From: "Larry Harrison" <olcott39@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 4:01 pm
Subject: Carlisle Events Car Talk Forum - Powered by vBulletin
ltcream67
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
AJ, to get on the Carlisle forums just click on the following web site and there is a list of all the shows they have there click on which show you are interested in and you will see post at the top of the page click on it and the instructions on signing in should follow.
Larry 
 

#81472 From: dcrawmer@...
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 9:48 am
Subject: Re: -> Wiring Harness
dcrawmer@...
Send Email Send Email
 
Year One has original style harnesses and sub harnesses (of which there are several) with connections that match original.  However they are not cheap.  Dick C 
 
In a message dated 11/10/2009 3:55:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, dodgeo_boy@... writes:
 

Hello folks I've been mulling over the forms I'm glad to see that there are so many of us that own such a rare over looked breed of charger, been a mopar freak since I could remember, I bought my first true mopar while I was in Iraq last may 67 w/ 318 I have one issue that stops the ol girl from hitting the road I have no electronic power to anything but the starter and plugs I while I was on leave I was to lazy to pull out the old muliti meter and trace it down to a few grounds I know bad mechanic, but in my defense i was having a blast putting the 4wheel disk conversion on it (cant trust military town drivers even if ur going for a round the block for a Sunday drive) and a new carb and intake manifold, any who I was wondering if any of u first gen charger vets new any common simple fixes, I've been hesitant to buy a "painless" wiring harness I'm also confused on the circuit 14, 16, 18, unfortunately my service manual is still in the states has any one had better luck with any kinds of harnesses I know the charger is a unique beast when it comes to electronics (hide away head lamps, fender turn signals, not to mention the tail lamp assembly) well I appreciate any an all the help even unrelated advice, and hope to be on the road at clubs with the big boys anytime soon. Stay safe for me while I'm over here, and take care of ur babys lol


#81471 From: "SPC Carlito US ARMY" <dodgeo_boy@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:54 am
Subject: Wiring Harness
dodgeo_boy
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Hello folks I've been mulling over the forms I'm glad to see that there are so
many of us that own such a rare over looked breed of charger, been a mopar freak
since I could remember, I bought my first true mopar while I was in Iraq last
may 67 w/ 318 I have one issue that stops the ol girl from hitting the road I
have no electronic power to anything but the starter and plugs I while I was on
leave I was to lazy to pull out the old muliti meter and trace it down to a few
grounds I know bad mechanic, but in my defense i was having a blast putting the
4wheel disk conversion on it (cant trust military town drivers even if ur going
for a round the block for a Sunday drive) and a new carb and intake manifold,
any who I was wondering if any of u first gen charger vets new any common simple
fixes, I've been hesitant to buy a "painless" wiring harness I'm also confused
on the circuit 14, 16, 18, unfortunately my service manual is still in the
states has any one had better luck with any kinds of harnesses I know the
charger is a unique beast when it comes to electronics (hide away head lamps,
fender turn signals, not to mention the tail lamp assembly) well I appreciate
any an all the help even unrelated advice, and hope to be on the road at clubs
with the big boys anytime soon. Stay safe for me while I'm over here, and take
care of ur babys lol

#81470 From: "Joe Zerance" <JOZE@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 1:09 am
Subject: Re: -> messages
JOZE@...
Send Email Send Email
 
John,I hear ya! I'm 47,had 5 bypasses this year and I had virtually no symptoms. Lost 17 lbs of muscle that I'm working to reclaim....looks like I'm 14 yrs old wearing my Dads clothes! JZ
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 02, 2009 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: -> messages

 

Jon;
 
Sorry to hear about your health problems. This getting old is for the birds isn't it?
 
I did a CT scan October 7th and the doctor called me 2 days later, said I am developing kidney stones.
 
Went for my preop testing Friday and they found my blood sugar level to be at 471. So I spent 7 hours in the ER getting it down.
 
If I ever meet the person who said these are my golden years, I am going to kick his ass!!! The only thing golden is all the money I am paying doctors and hospitals for this better living through "chemistry".
 
Hope your feeling better and get well soon.
 
John culiberk
APPAREL PLUS
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 6:39 PM
Subject: -> messages

 

Fellow members,
Just a quick question here for someone, I had 2 more heart attacks here since Sept. 26, Was in hosp. from Oct.22 til Tues. Oct.Oct. 27 and since I got home I ave not recieved a single message from the group.  Was it disbanded while Iwas gone, or did I not really come back, or is this part of the "Great Change" in the country since the gov't and Fiat took over Chrysler?
Maybe I need to reset my language to Italian?
C'mon guys what gives.............................
 
 
Wenatchee Jon
Jon Rappuhn


#81469 From: "Joe Zerance" <JOZE@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 1:00 am
Subject: Re: -> Health Issues, been there done that
JOZE@...
Send Email Send Email
 
Thanks for the info! If we feel better,we can work on our cars more. So the O/T thing is moot. :) JZ 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2009 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: -> Health Issues, been there done that

 

car looks great!

I know this is off topic, but I went through hell with the doctors.
 
On the health thing, the itch is your body trying to detox deadly chemicals. Better
google the drugs for side effects and other drug interactions.

Get a blood test for iodine levels and D3. Doctor won't test unless asked.  Mine were almost non existent. I began @ 25 mg (Not Microgram) iodine/iodide, and 50,000 IU D3 for 4 months. Monitor your levels monthly. My heart issues (irregular beat) stopped with calcium/magnesium supplements.  Get it from a chiropractor not a drug store.  They sell crap. My Chiro guy picked up all these problems!  Doctor wanted me on drugs. Screw him! Drugs won't solve anything when we lack these things.

I also would avoid any vaccine shots too.
http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2009/09/24/VERY-Important-Vaccine-Question.aspx

I attached an iodine pdf if anyone is interested.

Sorry for being off topic, but the way the medical people hand out dangerous drugs ticks me off.
Dennis

--- On Mon, 11/2/09, steve Fegley <speedracer366@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: steve Fegley <speedracer366@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: -> messages/charger progress
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, November 2, 2009, 5:07 PM

 

john b an jon r, hope your both doing better , im not doin so great myself , seems like everyday there is something else wrong with me. anyone on here diabetic , ever have allergic reactions to meds? last 2 weeks i look like i got measels , but itchs like poison! drivin me nuts! on brighter note ,charger is startin to go together now, cant wait till spring. cant we just skip winter?
the 69 in front of mine will someday be a general lee. 2 chargers at same time brought back to life:)  wishing everyone great health an happiness. an its not an old thing! im only 43!


From: John Culiberk <apparelplus@ charter.net>
To: 66_67_dodge_ chargers@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Mon, November 2, 2009 4:11:35 PM
Subject: Re: -> messages

 

Jon;
 
Sorry to hear about your health problems. This getting old is for the birds isn't it?
 
I did a CT scan October 7th and the doctor called me 2 days later, said I am developing kidney stones.
 
Went for my preop testing Friday and they found my blood sugar level to be at 471. So I spent 7 hours in the ER getting it down.
 
If I ever meet the person who said these are my golden years, I am going to kick his ass!!! The only thing golden is all the money I am paying doctors and hospitals for this better living through "chemistry".
 
Hope your feeling better and get well soon.
 
John culiberk
APPAREL PLUS
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 6:39 PM
Subject: -> messages

 

Fellow members,
Just a quick question here for someone, I had 2 more heart attacks here since Sept. 26, Was in hosp. from Oct.22 til Tues. Oct.Oct. 27 and since I got home I ave not recieved a single message from the group.  Was it disbanded while Iwas gone, or did I not really come back, or is this part of the "Great Change" in the country since the gov't and Fiat took over Chrysler?
Maybe I need to reset my language to Italian?
C'mon guys what gives....... ......... ......... ....
 
 
Wenatchee Jon
Jon Rappuhn




#81468 From: BillyGud@...
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:49 am
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem
billyguda
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
C Petry,
I have a service manual to look up torque lbs. Think I will use some thread lock this time.
Again, Thank You.
Billy


-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Petry <wv426charger@...>
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, Nov 9, 2009 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem

 

As stated before,Over time this problem comes up.You need to make sure the steering box mounting plate on the K- frame and the mounting spot on the gear box is CLEAN! The bolts are 12 point 5/8 course thread bolts-3 of them.The tourque on them is around 130ft lbs.Check service manual to be sure.A small dab of thread lock on each bolt is also a good idea.If you dont have a service manual or someone else in group doesent have torque spec.I look it up for you.C Petry!!!
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem

 
Mr. C Petry, Your advice on turning the steering wheel was absolutely correct. And like others said the bolts might be loose. I moved the steering box up and down from under the hood. No movement. Had my son come downstairs and turn the wheel. That sucker is "Loose as a Goose". It moved about an inch like Daniel's box did before.
Thank You Sir!
Billy


-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Petry <wv426charger@verizon.net>
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, Nov 9, 2009 5:49 pm
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem

 

BILLY!!!! As said before,Have someone turn the steering wheel while the car is still on the ground.You need to watch the box from under the hood.Turn the wheel with the engine NOT RUNNING>This will put more strain on the box,C Petry!!! C Petry!!!
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem

 
Thanks for the advice Daniel. Could have come loose. I'll get it off the ground tomorrow to see what I can find. I sure don't want to take that steering box off again. What a pain it was.
Thanks Billy


-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Daigneault <dany527@embarqmail.com>
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, Nov 9, 2009 3:19 pm
Subject: RE: -> Steering Problem

 
Billy, I had the same issue. Please get under there and check the steering box itself. The bolts on loosened up and the steering box was moving about an inch when steering . Don’t know how it happened but it did. Daniel, Orlando
 
From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BillyGud@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 11:06 AM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: -> Steering Problem
 
Haven't done any posting lately. But need some advice.
Yesterday, while I was driving, I started having some steering issues. Seems when I'm driving 45-50 MPH, making a turn on the Hwy., the steering doesn't react right. Seems as though I can turn the steering wheel about a quarter turn before it starts actually making a turn.
Everything in the front end has been replaced. All the bushings, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, shocks were replaced before putting it on the road. I replaced the steering box a couple of months ago. It was a "firm feel" from Steer & Gear. Worked fine until yesterday.
Is there an adjustment on the box that will fix the reaction in turning?
Your advice will be Greatly Appreciated.
Billy
 

#81467 From: Ward Gordner <wardg@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:15 am
Subject: Re: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise
gordnerward
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Funny I speak with him from time to time and never knew he wrote a book
ward
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 8:19 PM
Subject: RE: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

I Purchased his book on how to rebuilt 426 hemis and probably read it 10 times now. Excellent book. Daniel, Orlando

From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ward Gordner
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 7:43 PM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

When I did my engine years ago I found that Larry Shepard In Ohio was a great resource for info and parts both new and used. He called his company "Hemi onlys" until mopar landeed on him with both feet over the word "Hemi". His nubers are 330-882-3342 or 330-644-2000 try both. Of all the hemi experts he seemed to be the real thing. 

Sorry to hear of your trouble hope it all works out, hope this helps.

Ward 66 426         

don't forget the exhaust gaskets or the special hemi bilbs

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 7:21 AM

Subject: RE: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

Cory, All you said is being done. My questions to the group was mainly directed for those of us who do own a hemi engine who might know something I dont since this is my first time building a Hemi. I am realizing that there are many different materials used on producing bearings and I simply dont have the expertise. Jim Rose from California just built A stroker engine and he told me that he used the Clevite V Series so, this is a first good comment on this issue. I thank you for your comment on Cometic, I was not aware of that and I will research it before making the purchase. Also, I didnt think of Moparts.com, this is a good idea as well but I have never been on that site and dont know anybody as opposed to this group which has given me by far the best advices since the past 9 years so, I am sticking to the group. Don Garlits is in my area but he doesnt operate a shop, He has a Museum now.

Daniel, Orlando

From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Cory
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 11:12 PM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

  I didn't hear what happened to your engine but it sounds like you'll need a qualified machinist who can check everything out for you and make sure it all fits right and is properly balanced.  To be brutally honest, this isn't the list to be asking.  If you don't have any idea of where to take your engine locally I suggest you sign up on the Moparts.com message board and introduce yourself.  As for a local shop on either the Q&A or Racing Only board and you'll get plenty of help.  You could also look for a local Chrysler oriented car club and ask for references there.  For your application it doesn't really matter what gaskets and bearings you get as long as the do their job properly.  The Cometic stuff is expensive and I hear the head gasket can sometimes have water sealing problems, it's really more of a racing head gasket for high compression engines.
  Isn't Don Garlits' shop in your area?  He knows a thing or two about blown hemi's.
Good luck
Cory

Daniel Daigneault wrote:

 

Guys, again I need your help. As most of you know, The hemi in my car was blown (Is this a correct term???). I already purchased a new crank (Eagle 4340) as well 2 new rods (SCAT).

Now I need help from experts to determine which bearings and rings are the best for the engine. Im thinking of the followings;

         Head Gaskets: www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line 4.560 Part #C5447-040

         Top End Gaskets; www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021T (Minus Head Gaskets)

         Bottom End Gaskets; www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021B

         Total Seal GapLess rings http://www.totalseal.com/SearchByBore.aspx
I know nothing about rings. I need 4.500 Bore Rings (std size for 528 Hemis). I need to know which material to choose from

         Clevite Rod Bearings Part #695-CB1512   Part #695-CB527P I need to know which material to choose from
Part Number Key

*       H - High-Performance

*       HD - High-Performance bearing with dowel hole

*       HK - High-Performance bearing with moly/graphite coating

*       P - Standard Clevite 77 tri-metal bearing

*       N - High-Performance Narrowed for greater crankshaft fillet clearance

*       HG - High-Performance full angular grooved bearing

*       V - High-Performance with Lead Indium overlay (On Main Sets this indicates partial groove also)

*       VG - High-Performance with Lead Indium full angular grooved bearing

*       D - Bearing has a dowel hole

*       K - Tri-Armor coated bearing

*       X - Bearing has .001 more oil clearance than standard

*       XX - Bearing has .002 more oil clearance than standard

*       A or AL - Indicates Aluminum bearing material

         Clevite Main Bearings Part #695-MS876 or 695-MS481 or 695-MS972

I know I am asking a lot but for those of you who do know me, I really would like this to be the last time I have to do hard work on my hemi and any expert advice will help me make the best decision.

Thanks, Daniel, Orlando

_


#81466 From: "Charles Petry" <wv426charger@...>
Date: Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:08 am
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem
wvmopar
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

As stated before,Over time this problem comes up.You need to make sure the steering box mounting plate on the K- frame and the mounting spot on the gear box is CLEAN! The bolts are 12 point 5/8 course thread bolts-3 of them.The tourque on them is around 130ft lbs.Check service manual to be sure.A small dab of thread lock on each bolt is also a good idea.If you dont have a service manual or someone else in group doesent have torque spec.I look it up for you.C Petry!!!
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem

 

Mr. C Petry, Your advice on turning the steering wheel was absolutely correct. And like others said the bolts might be loose. I moved the steering box up and down from under the hood. No movement. Had my son come downstairs and turn the wheel. That sucker is "Loose as a Goose". It moved about an inch like Daniel's box did before.
Thank You Sir!
Billy


-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Petry <wv426charger@verizon.net>
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, Nov 9, 2009 5:49 pm
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem

 

BILLY!!!! As said before,Have someone turn the steering wheel while the car is still on the ground.You need to watch the box from under the hood.Turn the wheel with the engine NOT RUNNING>This will put more strain on the box,C Petry!!! C Petry!!!
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem

 
Thanks for the advice Daniel. Could have come loose. I'll get it off the ground tomorrow to see what I can find. I sure don't want to take that steering box off again. What a pain it was.
Thanks Billy


-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Daigneault <dany527@embarqmail.com>
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, Nov 9, 2009 3:19 pm
Subject: RE: -> Steering Problem

 
Billy, I had the same issue. Please get under there and check the steering box itself. The bolts on loosened up and the steering box was moving about an inch when steering . Don’t know how it happened but it did. Daniel, Orlando
 
From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BillyGud@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 11:06 AM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: -> Steering Problem
 
Haven't done any posting lately. But need some advice.
Yesterday, while I was driving, I started having some steering issues. Seems when I'm driving 45-50 MPH, making a turn on the Hwy., the steering doesn't react right. Seems as though I can turn the steering wheel about a quarter turn before it starts actually making a turn.
Everything in the front end has been replaced. All the bushings, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, shocks were replaced before putting it on the road. I replaced the steering box a couple of months ago. It was a "firm feel" from Steer & Gear. Worked fine until yesterday.
Is there an adjustment on the box that will fix the reaction in turning?
Your advice will be Greatly Appreciated.
Billy
 


#81465 From: BillyGud@...
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 11:18 pm
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem
billyguda
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Mr. C Petry, Your advice on turning the steering wheel was absolutely correct. And like others said the bolts might be loose. I moved the steering box up and down from under the hood. No movement. Had my son come downstairs and turn the wheel. That sucker is "Loose as a Goose". It moved about an inch like Daniel's box did before.
Thank You Sir!
Billy


-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Petry <wv426charger@...>
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, Nov 9, 2009 5:49 pm
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem

 

BILLY!!!! As said before,Have someone turn the steering wheel while the car is still on the ground.You need to watch the box from under the hood.Turn the wheel with the engine NOT RUNNING>This will put more strain on the box,C Petry!!! C Petry!!!
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem

 
Thanks for the advice Daniel. Could have come loose. I'll get it off the ground tomorrow to see what I can find. I sure don't want to take that steering box off again. What a pain it was.
Thanks Billy


-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Daigneault <dany527@embarqmail.com>
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, Nov 9, 2009 3:19 pm
Subject: RE: -> Steering Problem

 
Billy, I had the same issue. Please get under there and check the steering box itself. The bolts on loosened up and the steering box was moving about an inch when steering . Don’t know how it happened but it did. Daniel, Orlando
 
From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BillyGud@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 11:06 AM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: -> Steering Problem
 
Haven't done any posting lately. But need some advice.
Yesterday, while I was driving, I started having some steering issues. Seems when I'm driving 45-50 MPH, making a turn on the Hwy., the steering doesn't react right. Seems as though I can turn the steering wheel about a quarter turn before it starts actually making a turn.
Everything in the front end has been replaced. All the bushings, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, shocks were replaced before putting it on the road. I replaced the steering box a couple of months ago. It was a "firm feel" from Steer & Gear. Worked fine until yesterday.
Is there an adjustment on the box that will fix the reaction in turning?
Your advice will be Greatly Appreciated.
Billy
 

#81464 From: "Charles Petry" <wv426charger@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 10:49 pm
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem
wvmopar
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

BILLY!!!! As said before,Have someone turn the steering wheel while the car is still on the ground.You need to watch the box from under the hood.Turn the wheel with the engine NOT RUNNING>This will put more strain on the box,C Petry!!! C Petry!!!
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem

 

Thanks for the advice Daniel. Could have come loose. I'll get it off the ground tomorrow to see what I can find. I sure don't want to take that steering box off again. What a pain it was.
Thanks Billy


-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Daigneault <dany527@embarqmail.com>
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, Nov 9, 2009 3:19 pm
Subject: RE: -> Steering Problem

 
Billy, I had the same issue. Please get under there and check the steering box itself. The bolts on loosened up and the steering box was moving about an inch when steering . Don’t know how it happened but it did. Daniel, Orlando
 
From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BillyGud@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 11:06 AM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: -> Steering Problem
 
Haven't done any posting lately. But need some advice.
Yesterday, while I was driving, I started having some steering issues. Seems when I'm driving 45-50 MPH, making a turn on the Hwy., the steering doesn't react right. Seems as though I can turn the steering wheel about a quarter turn before it starts actually making a turn.
Everything in the front end has been replaced. All the bushings, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, shocks were replaced before putting it on the road. I replaced the steering box a couple of months ago. It was a "firm feel" from Steer & Gear. Worked fine until yesterday.
Is there an adjustment on the box that will fix the reaction in turning?
Your advice will be Greatly Appreciated.
Billy
 


#81463 From: BillyGud@...
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 10:25 pm
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem
billyguda
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Thanks for the advice Daniel. Could have come loose. I'll get it off the ground tomorrow to see what I can find. I sure don't want to take that steering box off again. What a pain it was.
Thanks Billy


-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Daigneault <dany527@...>
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, Nov 9, 2009 3:19 pm
Subject: RE: -> Steering Problem

 
Billy, I had the same issue. Please get under there and check the steering box itself. The bolts on loosened up and the steering box was moving about an inch when steering . Don’t know how it happened but it did. Daniel, Orlando
 
From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BillyGud@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 11:06 AM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: -> Steering Problem
 
 
Haven't done any posting lately. But need some advice.
Yesterday, while I was driving, I started having some steering issues. Seems when I'm driving 45-50 MPH, making a turn on the Hwy., the steering doesn't react right. Seems as though I can turn the steering wheel about a quarter turn before it starts actually making a turn.
Everything in the front end has been replaced. All the bushings, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, shocks were replaced before putting it on the road. I replaced the steering box a couple of months ago. It was a "firm feel" from Steer & Gear. Worked fine until yesterday.
Is there an adjustment on the box that will fix the reaction in turning?
Your advice will be Greatly Appreciated.
Billy
 

#81462 From: BillyGud@...
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 10:20 pm
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem
billyguda
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Yea, Terry. Worried me driving it back home yesterday.
Billy


-----Original Message-----
From: Terry <tehoover@...>
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, Nov 9, 2009 12:46 pm
Subject: RE: -> Steering Problem

 
I can’t suggest much detail with the info you gave but it sure sounds like something came loose!!!
Terry H
 

From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BillyGud@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 11:06 AM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: -> Steering Problem
 
 
Haven't done any posting lately. But need some advice.
Yesterday, while I was driving, I started having some steering issues. Seems when I'm driving 45-50 MPH, making a turn on the Hwy., the steering doesn't react right. Seems as though I can turn the steering wheel about a quarter turn before it starts actually making a turn.
Everything in the front end has been replaced. All the bushings, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, shocks were replaced before putting it on the road. I replaced the steering box a couple of months ago. It was a "firm feel" from Steer & Gear. Worked fine until yesterday.
Is there an adjustment on the box that will fix the reaction in turning?
Your advice will be Greatly Appreciated.
Billy
 

#81461 From: BillyGud@...
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 10:19 pm
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem
billyguda
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
I'll check out the bolts, since I had the steering box off a couple of months ago.
Thanks James.
Billy


-----Original Message-----
From: JAmes Dodge <dodge.james@...>
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, Nov 9, 2009 11:50 am
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem

 
Hello Billy,
check the steering box screws, they can be untied. Open the hood, ask to somebody move the steering whell right-left and look if the steering box are firm.
 
 
JAmes

2009/11/9 <BillyGud@aol.com>
 
Haven't done any posting lately. But need some advice.
Yesterday, while I was driving, I started having some steering issues. Seems when I'm driving 45-50 MPH, making a turn on the Hwy., the steering doesn't react right. Seems as though I can turn the steering wheel about a quarter turn before it starts actually making a turn.
Everything in the front end has been replaced. All the bushings, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, shocks were replaced before putting it on the road. I replaced the steering box a couple of months ago. It was a "firm feel" from Steer & Gear. Worked fine until yesterday.
Is there an adjustment on the box that will fix the reaction in turning?
Your advice will be Greatly Appreciated.
Billy
 



--
abraço,
JAmes

#81460 From: "Daniel Daigneault" <dany527@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 8:19 pm
Subject: RE: -> Steering Problem
danieldaigne...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

Billy, I had the same issue. Please get under there and check the steering box itself. The bolts on loosened up and the steering box was moving about an inch when steering . Don’t know how it happened but it did. Daniel, Orlando

 

From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BillyGud@...
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 11:06 AM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: -> Steering Problem

 

 

Haven't done any posting lately. But need some advice.

Yesterday, while I was driving, I started having some steering issues. Seems when I'm driving 45-50 MPH, making a turn on the Hwy., the steering doesn't react right. Seems as though I can turn the steering wheel about a quarter turn before it starts actually making a turn.

Everything in the front end has been replaced. All the bushings, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, shocks were replaced before putting it on the road. I replaced the steering box a couple of months ago. It was a "firm feel" from Steer & Gear. Worked fine until yesterday.

Is there an adjustment on the box that will fix the reaction in turning?

Your advice will be Greatly Appreciated.

Billy

 


#81459 From: "Daniel Daigneault" <dany527@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 8:15 pm
Subject: RE: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise
danieldaigne...
Offline Offline
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Thanks for the info. Daniel

 

From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spelic, Robert J.
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 9:35 AM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

 

Cometic are great race Gaskets. For a normal compression motor, I would just use a Fel-Pro gasket. The cometic have surface finish requirements for them to seal the water reliably.

 

I use the fully groove bearings in the race motor. For a street motor I would use the high performance with the graphite coating.

 

I have had great success with the gapless rings and don’t use anything else. I used to file fit them all but the gapless work fine and are a lot less work. The 439 in the dragster started the year off with 240 cranking compression and after about 200 runs, the compression test has the lowest at 225 and the highest at 240.

 

I have only used Eagle rods and crank. Scat stuff should be just fine in a street motor.

 

From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Daigneault
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 7:14 PM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

 

Guys, again I need your help. As most of you know, The hemi in my car was blown (Is this a correct term???). I already purchased a new crank (Eagle 4340) as well 2 new rods (SCAT).

Now I need help from experts to determine which bearings and rings are the best for the engine. I’m thinking of the followings;

·         Head Gaskets: www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line 4.560” Part #C5447-040

·         Top End Gaskets; www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021T (Minus Head Gaskets)

·         Bottom End Gaskets; www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021B

·         Total Seal GapLess rings http://www.totalseal.com/SearchByBore.aspx
I know nothing about rings. I need 4.500 Bore Rings (std size for 528 Hemis). I need to know which material to choose from

·         Clevite Rod Bearings Part #695-CB1512   Part #695-CB527P I need to know which material to choose from
Part Number Key

*       H - High-Performance

*       HD - High-Performance bearing with dowel hole

*       HK - High-Performance bearing with moly/graphite coating

*       P - Standard Clevite 77 tri-metal bearing

*       N - High-Performance Narrowed for greater crankshaft fillet clearance

*       HG - High-Performance full angular grooved bearing

*       V - High-Performance with Lead Indium overlay (On Main Sets this indicates partial groove also)

*       VG - High-Performance with Lead Indium full angular grooved bearing

*       D - Bearing has a dowel hole

*       K - Tri-Armor coated bearing

*       X - Bearing has .001 more oil clearance than standard

*       XX - Bearing has .002 more oil clearance than standard

*       A or AL - Indicates Aluminum bearing material

·         Clevite Main Bearings Part #695-MS876 or 695-MS481 or 695-MS972

 

I know I am asking a lot but for those of you who do know me, I really would like this to be the last time I have to do hard work on my hemi and any expert advice will help me make the best decision.

Thanks, Daniel, Orlando


#81458 From: "Terry" <tehoover@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 5:46 pm
Subject: RE: -> Steering Problem
montour207
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

I can’t suggest much detail with the info you gave but it sure sounds like something came loose!!!

Terry H

 


From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BillyGud@...
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 11:06 AM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: -> Steering Problem

 

 

Haven't done any posting lately. But need some advice.

Yesterday, while I was driving, I started having some steering issues. Seems when I'm driving 45-50 MPH, making a turn on the Hwy., the steering doesn't react right. Seems as though I can turn the steering wheel about a quarter turn before it starts actually making a turn.

Everything in the front end has been replaced. All the bushings, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, shocks were replaced before putting it on the road. I replaced the steering box a couple of months ago. It was a "firm feel" from Steer & Gear. Worked fine until yesterday.

Is there an adjustment on the box that will fix the reaction in turning?

Your advice will be Greatly Appreciated.

Billy

 


#81457 From: BLAINE SHAW <blaine.shaw@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 5:24 pm
Subject: Re: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise
blaine.shaw...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Dan - Was your cam a roller cam or flat tappit?  If a roller don't worry and if a flat tappit have your shop check the cam carefully - usually there will be a crank and cam resurfacer in the area that will have the equipment to check the lift and duration.  If not there is a system called CAM DOCTOR that your engine shop should have access to.
Are you using an engine machine shop to reassemble this engine and check all clearances?
I will double check and find a chassis dyno in the disney area (if I can or at least a reliable and recommended one) that understands carbs.  Dan what I can tell you is this I ordered 2 550 Edelbrock carbs to be mounted on an Edelbrock intake and when I had them checked the jets were different in both and the idle plungers were different - they wre both 550cfm's but different.  When I had them rejeted and then balanced it made a 100% difference in both performance and idle not to mention fuel usuage.  No didn't go to 22 mpg but went from I would say 8 to 12 plus the car just ran better.  The car doesn't cut the eyes out of you when you standing behind it at an idle.  I wish you were closer as a member of our CLub has the hand held O2 sensor machine with the wide band and can set you up while driving on the street.  
You did everything correctly on oil but remember the synthetic is a little different - yes gives much better protection on dry start ups and keeps its viscosty better in hot conditions, but it will be used up at a different rate.  Just use the dipstick more often a small job to ensure long use of the engine.  I built mine 12 years ago and after break in I have used AmSoil synthetic 10W40 every year since.
The guy with the Hemi dart I wouuld call and exchange notes with him.
You are getting a lot of great advise from everyone, but I am, afraid I might be coming across as gloom and doom, I am trying not just trying to hilite areas that I have found need to be checked.  Gas and Oil have all changed from the 60's and we forget this sometimes.  i wish you were closer to Toronto so I couuld help as I know the shops up here, but I will see what I can find for you.
Call me if you want maybe talking will be better and not as doom and gloomy as writing seems to make it sound.  905-821-2965 after 6 pm or 905-826-8706 between 1:30 and 5:30 pm.  I won't be available at all tomorrtow as it is Dr. appt day..


From: Daniel Daigneault <dany527@...>
To: BLAINE SHAW <blaine.shaw@...>
Cc: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, November 9, 2009 6:46:26 AM
Subject: RE: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

Blaine, Thanks for your help. I don’t know what wet and dry compression test are and the engine is now dismantled. Since I am changing the rings, I guess this issue is resolved for now. When I got the engine originally, the builder told me that the carbs were pre-sets and calibrated for the 528 so he told me not to touch them. There are adjustment screws in the front of the front carb and 1 of them was filled will lead or something therefore, no adjustment there.

The engine was never Dynoed and neither was it in the car because, there is a lot of dyno shop here and each time I spoke to someone, they all say they are the best tuners out there but the only cars I see are the Japanese crap and I will not have anybody dyno tune the Hemi unless I am totally sure he’s a real Hemi guy. There is a guy who showed up 1 day at Old Town (this is our main Saturday night meet here in the Disney Area) with a freshly built Hemi Dart. He gave me his card but I never made it there.

You said running the cam incorrectly, are you saying that my cam might be damaged? Is this something that the machine shop can check? It is a 5K only engine and never thought this would be a problem. What do you recommend?

Oiling was not an issue, I used SAE 30 detergent oil for the first 500 miles, threw it out, Ran Castroll  GTX 10W40 for another 2,000 miles and then, was running on the new 20W50 Racing Synthetic Blend for flat tappets from Huges Racing. I am planning to do same when the engine is running again

On the Cometics, I found out that they required to have the block surface to be @ 50RA or less (Roughness measurement) for top results  so I will have the block check for that.

I plan on using total seal Gapless rings because I don’t want to see my compression ratio going down again but you are having me worried about the carburetion. What should I do? I need to know before I start the engine again

If you do have a recommendation on a hemi guy in the Orlando area who can dyno tune, I will check it out.

Thanks, Daniel, Orlando

 

From: BLAINE SHAW [mailto:blaine. shaw@rogers. com]
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 12:51 PM
To: Daniel Daigneault
Subject: Re: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

Dan your right the dollars are going to collide and this will spell some doom for CDN's again.

I am following the notes back and forth and there is nothing but excellent comments all around.

Mr Roses comments on V groove are great and these bearings will hold extra oil in close.

I am however concern about your comment on the loss of compression in such a short time frame.  I will ask if you did a wet and dry check on the rings?  By doing both dry 1st then squirt oil into cylinder just a squirt then check compression again and if there is a more than 25% difference conclusively tells you the rings are out of the motor.  The biggest reason we find for rings failing in new motors is gas washed cylinder walls.  This means that the carbs are putting to much fuel threw the system.  It is a very common problem with todays mechanics who don't understand carbration.  I don't recall if you had the car chassis dyno'ed after the build to check the tune on the carbs and timing or just had the engine on the engine dyno.  I would say that about 30% of the performance build we do come back with rings out or the cam gone because the mechanic or shadetree mech failed to check the air/fuel ratio and run the cam in correctly.  Many really don't understand carbs and how to jet down or up depending on the needs of the engine and that carbs do not come from Holley, Edelbrock, ProForm tuned to performance or dual carb setups.  I had to completely redo my 2 carbs as they weren't even close  They also forget that the oils today don't have the lead/zinc contents and they need to be added at the time of start up and for the first 1000 miles before going to synthetic.  Especially on flat tappet cams roller cams are not as much of a problem.  Comp Cam makes a breakin additive and I really really recommend its use.

The Cometic gaskets did have some water sealing trouble and still do if you don't watch the little brass rivets that hold the gasket together.  This is usually prevelent on new lines, but not once the gasket becomes a catalogue item.  We have use these on 426, 392 440, 383 plus all the Ford and Chevy fully blown acholol race engines with no problems.  In fact right now we look after a 392 full race full blown to 25 Lbs drag car running in the NHRA and IHRA notialga class and turning 8.5's and this year came in 2nd when he cut a light to fine.  The winner was a Chevy engine we built also.  If they work at this level they are the best on street drivers.

Sorry to be long winded, but I see so much of this every day and if these guys would just understand that technology has drastically changed from the 60's and they haven't kept up.  Everyone of them walk through the door and the first thing they say is "We didn't have to do that before!".  For myself I know "I have just enough knowledge to get myself into great big trouble!".

Anyway if I can help or you want I can check through AERA (Amercian Engine Rebuilders Associatiom) who we belong to and find a engine shop or someone close to you that you can go pick there brains.

 


From: Daniel Daigneault <dany527@embarqmail. com>
To: BLAINE SHAW <blaine.shaw@ rogers.com>
Sent: Sat, November 7, 2009 11:09:38 PM
Subject: RE: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

ANNNNNNNNNNNNNNNHHH HHHHHHHH!

The Canadian Dollar is still lower that the American Dollar????

I DON”T THINK SO, The dollar here is dying…. LOL

 

From: BLAINE SHAW [mailto:blaine. shaw@rogers. com]
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 10:51 PM
To: Daniel Daigneault
Subject: Re: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

Dan - I will give you my 2 cents canadian worth -

 


From: Daniel Daigneault <dany527@embarqmail. com>
To: 66_67_dodge_ chargers@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Sat, November 7, 2009 7:13:54 PM
Subject: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

Guys, again I need your help. As most of you know, The hemi in my car was blown (Is this a correct term???). I already purchased a new crank (Eagle 4340) as well 2 new rods (SCAT).

Now I need help from experts to determine which bearings and rings are the best for the engine. I’m thinking of the followings;

·         Head Gaskets: www.cometic. com  Street Pro Line 4.560” Part #C5447-040 ------Excellent choice of multi layer gasket and the only one I would use as it gives the best seal.

·         Top End Gaskets; www.cometic. com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021T (Minus Head Gaskets)

·         Bottom End Gaskets; www..cometic. com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021B ------Cometic makets great gaskets but for top end and bottom end where there is little or no strain on the gasket a good FelPro or Corteco gasket would do just as well.  If money is an issue Cometic will be more expensive.  I would recommend the FelPro rubberized with steel center layer for the valve cover as they are reusable and resist premature crush.

·         Total Seal GapLess rings http://www.totalsea l..com/SearchByBo re.aspx
I know nothing about rings. I need 4.500 Bore Rings (std size for 528 Hemis). I need to know which material to choose from ------These would be the rings I would recommend and hand file the ring end gaps for a better fit.  I can get the exact gap, but I do know that each ring (compression, oil and scrubber) have different gaps.

I will add here that I would recommend that the tops of the pistons be heat treated will cost you about $400. but will aid the piston to withstand more heat incase of lean burn or backfire.

·         Clevite Rod Bearings Part #695-CB1512   Part #695-CB527P I need to know which material to choose from Clevitte or ACL are the bearing we use all the time and depending on how tight we want the bearing to crank clearance will dictate which bearing we use sometimes as one will be tighter than the other.  Here again the bearing can be ordered with a slipper coating added which will give them more life and add horsepower as they allow the crank to spin easier.  I will have to check with my builder to get the exact numbers for you.
Part Number Key

Error! Filename not specified.       H - High-Performance

Error! Filename not specified.       HD - High-Performance bearing with dowel hole

Error! Filename not specified.       HK - High-Performance bearing with moly/graphite coating

Error! Filename not specified.       P - Standard Clevite 77 tri-metal bearing

Error! Filename not specified.       N - High-Performance Narrowed for greater crankshaft fillet clearance

Error! Filename not specified.       HG - High-Performance full angular grooved bearing

Error! Filename not specified.       V - High-Performance with Lead Indium overlay (On Main Sets this indicates partial groove also)

Error! Filename not specified.       VG - High-Performance with Lead Indium full angular grooved bearing

Error! Filename not specified.       D - Bearing has a dowel hole

Error! Filename not specified.       K - Tri-Armor coated bearing

Error! Filename not specified.       X - Bearing has .001 more oil clearance than standard

Error! Filename not specified.       XX - Bearing has .002 more oil clearance than standard

Error! Filename not specified.       A or AL - Indicates Aluminum bearing material

·         Clevite Main Bearings Part #695-MS876 or 695-MS481 or 695-MS972

 Also watch the cam bearing as #4 has a hole in and must be lined up to allow oiling to the cam.  Also I believe #6 connecting rod goes in in one direction as it has a squirter to oil the piston on #6. (Iknow it is in a 440, but check to be sure I will also).

I know I am asking a lot but for those of you who do know me, I really would like this to be the last time I have to do hard work on my hemi and any expert advice will help me make the best decision.

Thanks, Daniel, Orlando I will be glad to ask my builder anything for you just drop a line.


#81456 From: JAmes Dodge <dodge.james@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 4:50 pm
Subject: Re: -> Steering Problem
lucianolorenzi
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Hello Billy,
check the steering box screws, they can be untied. Open the hood, ask to somebody move the steering whell right-left and look if the steering box are firm.
JAmes

2009/11/9 <BillyGud@...>

Haven't done any posting lately. But need some advice.
Yesterday, while I was driving, I started having some steeringissues. Seems when I'm driving 45-50 MPH, making a turn on the Hwy., the steering doesn't react right. Seems as though I can turn the steering wheel about a quarter turn before it starts actually makinga turn.
Everything in the front end has been replaced. All the bushings, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, shocks were replaced before putting it on the road. I replaced the steering box a couple of months ago. It was a "firm feel" fromSteer& Gear. Worked fine until yesterday.
Is there an adjustment on the box thatwill fix the reaction in turning?
Your advice will be Greatly Appreciated.
Billy




--
abrao,
JAmes

#81455 From: "Nick" <nk1190@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 4:11 pm
Subject: Looking for a 383 motor?
nk1190
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Preferably from 67', thanks, Nick.

#81454 From: BillyGud@...
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 4:05 pm
Subject: Steering Problem
billyguda
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Haven't done any posting lately. But need some advice.
Yesterday, while I was driving, I started having some steering issues. Seems when I'm driving 45-50 MPH, making a turn on the Hwy., the steering doesn't react right. Seems as though I can turn the steering wheel about a quarter turn before it starts actually making a turn.
Everything in the front end has been replaced. All the bushings, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, shocks were replaced before putting it on the road. I replaced the steering box a couple of months ago. It was a "firm feel" from Steer & Gear. Worked fine until yesterday.
Is there an adjustment on the box that will fix the reaction in turning?
Your advice will be Greatly Appreciated.
Billy
 

#81453 From: "Spelic, Robert J." <rspelic@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 2:35 pm
Subject: RE: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise
spelicr
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

Cometic are great race Gaskets. For a normal compression motor, I would just use a Fel-Pro gasket. The cometic have surface finish requirements for them to seal the water reliably.

 

I use the fully groove bearings in the race motor. For a street motor I would use the high performance with the graphite coating.

 

I have had great success with the gapless rings and don’t use anything else. I used to file fit them all but the gapless work fine and are a lot less work. The 439 in the dragster started the year off with 240 cranking compression and after about 200 runs, the compression test has the lowest at 225 and the highest at 240.

 

I have only used Eagle rods and crank. Scat stuff should be just fine in a street motor.

 

From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Daigneault
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 7:14 PM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

 

Guys, again I need your help. As most of you know, The hemi in my car was blown (Is this a correct term???). I already purchased a new crank (Eagle 4340) as well 2 new rods (SCAT).

Now I need help from experts to determine which bearings and rings are the best for the engine. I’m thinking of the followings;

·         Head Gaskets: www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line 4.560” Part #C5447-040

·         Top End Gaskets; www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021T (Minus Head Gaskets)

·         Bottom End Gaskets; www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021B

·         Total Seal GapLess rings http://www.totalseal.com/SearchByBore.aspx
I know nothing about rings. I need 4.500 Bore Rings (std size for 528 Hemis). I need to know which material to choose from

·         Clevite Rod Bearings Part #695-CB1512   Part #695-CB527P I need to know which material to choose from
Part Number Key

*       H - High-Performance

*       HD - High-Performance bearing with dowel hole

*       HK - High-Performance bearing with moly/graphite coating

*       P - Standard Clevite 77 tri-metal bearing

*       N - High-Performance Narrowed for greater crankshaft fillet clearance

*       HG - High-Performance full angular grooved bearing

*       V - High-Performance with Lead Indium overlay (On Main Sets this indicates partial groove also)

*       VG - High-Performance with Lead Indium full angular grooved bearing

*       D - Bearing has a dowel hole

*       K - Tri-Armor coated bearing

*       X - Bearing has .001 more oil clearance than standard

*       XX - Bearing has .002 more oil clearance than standard

*       A or AL - Indicates Aluminum bearing material

·         Clevite Main Bearings Part #695-MS876 or 695-MS481 or 695-MS972

 

I know I am asking a lot but for those of you who do know me, I really would like this to be the last time I have to do hard work on my hemi and any expert advice will help me make the best decision.

Thanks, Daniel, Orlando


#81452 From: "Daniel Daigneault" <dany527@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 11:46 am
Subject: RE: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise
danieldaigne...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

Blaine, Thanks for your help. I don’t know what wet and dry compression test are and the engine is now dismantled. Since I am changing the rings, I guess this issue is resolved for now. When I got the engine originally, the builder told me that the carbs were pre-sets and calibrated for the 528 so he told me not to touch them. There are adjustment screws in the front of the front carb and 1 of them was filled will lead or something therefore, no adjustment there.

The engine was never Dynoed and neither was it in the car because, there is a lot of dyno shop here and each time I spoke to someone, they all say they are the best tuners out there but the only cars I see are the Japanese crap and I will not have anybody dyno tune the Hemi unless I am totally sure he’s a real Hemi guy. There is a guy who showed up 1 day at Old Town (this is our main Saturday night meet here in the Disney Area) with a freshly built Hemi Dart. He gave me his card but I never made it there.

You said running the cam incorrectly, are you saying that my cam might be damaged? Is this something that the machine shop can check? It is a 5K only engine and never thought this would be a problem. What do you recommend?

Oiling was not an issue, I used SAE 30 detergent oil for the first 500 miles, threw it out, Ran Castroll  GTX 10W40 for another 2,000 miles and then, was running on the new 20W50 Racing Synthetic Blend for flat tappets from Huges Racing. I am planning to do same when the engine is running again

On the Cometics, I found out that they required to have the block surface to be @ 50RA or less (Roughness measurement) for top results  so I will have the block check for that.

I plan on using total seal Gapless rings because I don’t want to see my compression ratio going down again but you are having me worried about the carburetion. What should I do? I need to know before I start the engine again

If you do have a recommendation on a hemi guy in the Orlando area who can dyno tune, I will check it out.

Thanks, Daniel, Orlando

 

From: BLAINE SHAW [mailto:blaine.shaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 12:51 PM
To: Daniel Daigneault
Subject: Re: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

Dan your right the dollars are going to collide and this will spell some doom for CDN's again.

I am following the notes back and forth and there is nothing but excellent comments all around.

Mr Roses comments on V groove are great and these bearings will hold extra oil in close.

I am however concern about your comment on the loss of compression in such a short time frame.  I will ask if you did a wet and dry check on the rings?  By doing both dry 1st then squirt oil into cylinder just a squirt then check compression again and if there is a more than 25% difference conclusively tells you the rings are out of the motor.  The biggest reason we find for rings failing in new motors is gas washed cylinder walls.  This means that the carbs are putting to much fuel threw the system.  It is a very common problem with todays mechanics who don't understand carbration.  I don't recall if you had the car chassis dyno'ed after the build to check the tune on the carbs and timing or just had the engine on the engine dyno.  I would say that about 30% of the performance build we do come back with rings out or the cam gone because the mechanic or shadetree mech failed to check the air/fuel ratio and run the cam in correctly.  Many really don't understand carbs and how to jet down or up depending on the needs of the engine and that carbs do not come from Holley, Edelbrock, ProForm tuned to performance or dual carb setups.  I had to completely redo my 2 carbs as they weren't even close  They also forget that the oils today don't have the lead/zinc contents and they need to be added at the time of start up and for the first 1000 miles before going to synthetic.  Especially on flat tappet cams roller cams are not as much of a problem.  Comp Cam makes a breakin additive and I really really recommend its use.

The Cometic gaskets did have some water sealing trouble and still do if you don't watch the little brass rivets that hold the gasket together.  This is usually prevelent on new lines, but not once the gasket becomes a catalogue item.  We have use these on 426, 392 440, 383 plus all the Ford and Chevy fully blown acholol race engines with no problems.  In fact right now we look after a 392 full race full blown to 25 Lbs drag car running in the NHRA and IHRA notialga class and turning 8.5's and this year came in 2nd when he cut a light to fine.  The winner was a Chevy engine we built also.  If they work at this level they are the best on street drivers.

Sorry to be long winded, but I see so much of this every day and if these guys would just understand that technology has drastically changed from the 60's and they haven't kept up.  Everyone of them walk through the door and the first thing they say is "We didn't have to do that before!".  For myself I know "I have just enough knowledge to get myself into great big trouble!".

Anyway if I can help or you want I can check through AERA (Amercian Engine Rebuilders Associatiom) who we belong to and find a engine shop or someone close to you that you can go pick there brains.

 


From: Daniel Daigneault <dany527@...>
To: BLAINE SHAW <blaine.shaw@...>
Sent: Sat, November 7, 2009 11:09:38 PM
Subject: RE: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

ANNNNNNNNNNNNNNNHHHHHHHHHHH!

The Canadian Dollar is still lower that the American Dollar????

I DON”T THINK SO, The dollar here is dying…. LOL

 

From: BLAINE SHAW [mailto:blaine.shaw@...]
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 10:51 PM
To: Daniel Daigneault
Subject: Re: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

Dan - I will give you my 2 cents canadian worth -

 


From: Daniel Daigneault <dany527@...>
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, November 7, 2009 7:13:54 PM
Subject: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

Guys, again I need your help. As most of you know, The hemi in my car was blown (Is this a correct term???). I already purchased a new crank (Eagle 4340) as well 2 new rods (SCAT).

Now I need help from experts to determine which bearings and rings are the best for the engine. I’m thinking of the followings;

·         Head Gaskets: www.cometic. com  Street Pro Line 4.560” Part #C5447-040 ------Excellent choice of multi layer gasket and the only one I would use as it gives the best seal.

·         Top End Gaskets; www.cometic. com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021T (Minus Head Gaskets)

·         Bottom End Gaskets; www.cometic. com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021B ------Cometic makets great gaskets but for top end and bottom end where there is little or no strain on the gasket a good FelPro or Corteco gasket would do just as well.  If money is an issue Cometic will be more expensive.  I would recommend the FelPro rubberized with steel center layer for the valve cover as they are reusable and resist premature crush.

·         Total Seal GapLess rings http://www.totalsea l.com/SearchByBo re.aspx
I know nothing about rings. I need 4.500 Bore Rings (std size for 528 Hemis). I need to know which material to choose from ------These would be the rings I would recommend and hand file the ring end gaps for a better fit.  I can get the exact gap, but I do know that each ring (compression, oil and scrubber) have different gaps.

I will add here that I would recommend that the tops of the pistons be heat treated will cost you about $400. but will aid the piston to withstand more heat incase of lean burn or backfire.

·         Clevite Rod Bearings Part #695-CB1512   Part #695-CB527P I need to know which material to choose from Clevitte or ACL are the bearing we use all the time and depending on how tight we want the bearing to crank clearance will dictate which bearing we use sometimes as one will be tighter than the other.  Here again the bearing can be ordered with a slipper coating added which will give them more life and add horsepower as they allow the crank to spin easier.  I will have to check with my builder to get the exact numbers for you.
Part Number Key

Error! Filename not specified.       H - High-Performance

Error! Filename not specified.       HD - High-Performance bearing with dowel hole

Error! Filename not specified.       HK - High-Performance bearing with moly/graphite coating

Error! Filename not specified.       P - Standard Clevite 77 tri-metal bearing

Error! Filename not specified.       N - High-Performance Narrowed for greater crankshaft fillet clearance

Error! Filename not specified.       HG - High-Performance full angular grooved bearing

Error! Filename not specified.       V - High-Performance with Lead Indium overlay (On Main Sets this indicates partial groove also)

Error! Filename not specified.       VG - High-Performance with Lead Indium full angular grooved bearing

Error! Filename not specified.       D - Bearing has a dowel hole

Error! Filename not specified.       K - Tri-Armor coated bearing

Error! Filename not specified.       X - Bearing has .001 more oil clearance than standard

Error! Filename not specified.       XX - Bearing has .002 more oil clearance than standard

Error! Filename not specified.       A or AL - Indicates Aluminum bearing material

·         Clevite Main Bearings Part #695-MS876 or 695-MS481 or 695-MS972

 Also watch the cam bearing as #4 has a hole in and must be lined up to allow oiling to the cam.  Also I believe #6 connecting rod goes in in one direction as it has a squirter to oil the piston on #6. (Iknow it is in a 440, but check to be sure I will also).

I know I am asking a lot but for those of you who do know me, I really would like this to be the last time I have to do hard work on my hemi and any expert advice will help me make the best decision.

Thanks, Daniel, Orlando I will be glad to ask my builder anything for you just drop a line.


#81451 From: "Charles Petry" <wv426charger@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 10:40 am
Subject: Re: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise
wvmopar
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Ward-Daniel!! Larry shepard is the Hemi-Man.He has also helped me in past years.If you need some advice about the 426-Hemi,Talk to him.C Petry!!!
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 7:42 PM
Subject: Re: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

When I did my engine years ago I found that Larry Shepard In Ohio was a great resource for info and parts both new and used. He called his company "Hemi onlys" until mopar landeed on him with both feet over the word "Hemi". His nubers are 330-882-3342 or 330-644-2000 try both. Of all the hemi experts he seemed to be the real thing. 
Sorry to hear of your trouble hope it all works out, hope this helps.
 
Ward 66 426         
don't forget the exhaust gaskets or the special hemi bilbs
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 7:21 AM
Subject: RE: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

Cory, All you said is being done. My questions to the group was mainly directed for those of us who do own a hemi engine who might know something I dont since this is my first time building a Hemi. I am realizing that there are many different materials used on producing bearings and I simply dont have the expertise. Jim Rose from California just built A stroker engine and he told me that he used the Clevite V Series so, this is a first good comment on this issue. I thank you for your comment on Cometic, I was not aware of that and I will research it before making the purchase. Also, I didnt think of Moparts.com, this is a good idea as well but I have never been on that site and dont know anybody as opposed to this group which has given me by far the best advices since the past 9 years so, I am sticking to the group. Don Garlits is in my area but he doesnt operate a shop, He has a Museum now.

Daniel, Orlando

From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Cory
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 11:12 PM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

  I didn't hear what happened to your engine but it sounds like you'll need a qualified machinist who can check everything out for you and make sure it all fits right and is properly balanced.  To be brutally honest, this isn't the list to be asking.  If you don't have any idea of where to take your engine locally I suggest you sign up on the Moparts.com message board and introduce yourself.  As for a local shop on either the Q&A or Racing Only board and you'll get plenty of help.  You could also look for a local Chrysler oriented car club and ask for references there.  For your application it doesn't really matter what gaskets and bearings you get as long as the do their job properly.  The Cometic stuff is expensive and I hear the head gasket can sometimes have water sealing problems, it's really more of a racing head gasket for high compression engines.
  Isn't Don Garlits' shop in your area?  He knows a thing or two about blown hemi's.
Good luck
Cory

Daniel Daigneault wrote:

 

Guys, again I need your help. As most of you know, The hemi in my car was blown (Is this a correct term???). I already purchased a new crank (Eagle 4340) as well 2 new rods (SCAT).

Now I need help from experts to determine which bearings and rings are the best for the engine. Im thinking of the followings;

         Head Gaskets: www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line 4.560 Part #C5447-040

         Top End Gaskets; www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021T (Minus Head Gaskets)

         Bottom End Gaskets; www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021B

         Total Seal GapLess rings http://www.totalseal.com/SearchByBore.aspx
I know nothing about rings. I need 4.500 Bore Rings (std size for 528 Hemis). I need to know which material to choose from

         Clevite Rod Bearings Part #695-CB1512   Part #695-CB527P I need to know which material to choose from
Part Number Key

*       H - High-Performance

*       HD - High-Performance bearing with dowel hole

*       HK - High-Performance bearing with moly/graphite coating

*       P - Standard Clevite 77 tri-metal bearing

*       N - High-Performance Narrowed for greater crankshaft fillet clearance

*       HG - High-Performance full angular grooved bearing

*       V - High-Performance with Lead Indium overlay (On Main Sets this indicates partial groove also)

*       VG - High-Performance with Lead Indium full angular grooved bearing

*       D - Bearing has a dowel hole

*       K - Tri-Armor coated bearing

*       X - Bearing has .001 more oil clearance than standard

*       XX - Bearing has .002 more oil clearance than standard

*       A or AL - Indicates Aluminum bearing material

         Clevite Main Bearings Part #695-MS876 or 695-MS481 or 695-MS972

I know I am asking a lot but for those of you who do know me, I really would like this to be the last time I have to do hard work on my hemi and any expert advice will help me make the best decision.

Thanks, Daniel, Orlando

_


#81450 From: "Daniel Daigneault" <dany527@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 1:19 am
Subject: RE: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise
danieldaigne...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

I Purchased his book on how to rebuilt 426 hemis and probably read it 10 times now. Excellent book. Daniel, Orlando

 

From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ward Gordner
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 7:43 PM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

 

When I did my engine years ago I found that Larry Shepard In Ohio was a great resource for info and parts both new and used. He called his company "Hemi onlys" until mopar landeed on him with both feet over the word "Hemi". His nubers are 330-882-3342 or 330-644-2000 try both. Of all the hemi experts he seemed to be the real thing. 

Sorry to hear of your trouble hope it all works out, hope this helps.

 

Ward 66 426         

don't forget the exhaust gaskets or the special hemi bilbs

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 7:21 AM

Subject: RE: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

 

Cory, All you said is being done. My questions to the group was mainly directed for those of us who do own a hemi engine who might know something I don’t since this is my first time building a Hemi. I am realizing that there are many different materials used on producing bearings and I simply don’t have the expertise. Jim Rose from California just built A stroker engine and he told me that he used the Clevite “V” Series so, this is a first good comment on this issue. I thank you for your comment on Cometic, I was not aware of that and I will research it before making the purchase. Also, I didn’t think of Moparts.com, this is a good idea as well but I have never been on that site and don’t know anybody as opposed to this group which has given me by far the best advices since the past 9 years so, I am sticking to the group. Don Garlits is in my area but he doesn’t operate a shop, He has a Museum now.

Daniel, Orlando

From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Cory
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 11:12 PM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

  I didn't hear what happened to your engine but it sounds like you'll need a qualified machinist who can check everything out for you and make sure it all fits right and is properly balanced.  To be brutally honest, this isn't the list to be asking.  If you don't have any idea of where to take your engine locally I suggest you sign up on the Moparts.com message board and introduce yourself.  As for a local shop on either the Q&A or Racing Only board and you'll get plenty of help.  You could also look for a local Chrysler oriented car club and ask for references there.  For your application it doesn't really matter what gaskets and bearings you get as long as the do their job properly.  The Cometic stuff is expensive and I hear the head gasket can sometimes have water sealing problems, it's really more of a racing head gasket for high compression engines.
  Isn't Don Garlits' shop in your area?  He knows a thing or two about blown hemi's.
Good luck
Cory

Daniel Daigneault wrote:

 

Guys, again I need your help. As most of you know, The hemi in my car was blown (Is this a correct term???). I already purchased a new crank (Eagle 4340) as well 2 new rods (SCAT).

Now I need help from experts to determine which bearings and rings are the best for the engine. I’m thinking of the followings;

·         Head Gaskets: www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line 4.560” Part #C5447-040

·         Top End Gaskets; www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021T (Minus Head Gaskets)

·         Bottom End Gaskets; www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021B

·         Total Seal GapLess rings http://www.totalseal.com/SearchByBore.aspx
I know nothing about rings. I need 4.500 Bore Rings (std size for 528 Hemis). I need to know which material to choose from

·         Clevite Rod Bearings Part #695-CB1512   Part #695-CB527P I need to know which material to choose from
Part Number Key

*       H - High-Performance

*       HD - High-Performance bearing with dowel hole

*       HK - High-Performance bearing with moly/graphite coating

*       P - Standard Clevite 77 tri-metal bearing

*       N - High-Performance Narrowed for greater crankshaft fillet clearance

*       HG - High-Performance full angular grooved bearing

*       V - High-Performance with Lead Indium overlay (On Main Sets this indicates partial groove also)

*       VG - High-Performance with Lead Indium full angular grooved bearing

*       D - Bearing has a dowel hole

*       K - Tri-Armor coated bearing

*       X - Bearing has .001 more oil clearance than standard

*       XX - Bearing has .002 more oil clearance than standard

*       A or AL - Indicates Aluminum bearing material

·         Clevite Main Bearings Part #695-MS876 or 695-MS481 or 695-MS972

I know I am asking a lot but for those of you who do know me, I really would like this to be the last time I have to do hard work on my hemi and any expert advice will help me make the best decision.

Thanks, Daniel, Orlando

_


#81449 From: Ward Gordner <wardg@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 12:42 am
Subject: Re: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise
gordnerward
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
When I did my engine years ago I found that Larry Shepard In Ohio was a great resource for info and parts both new and used. He called his company "Hemi onlys" until mopar landeed on him with both feet over the word "Hemi". His nubers are 330-882-3342 or 330-644-2000 try both. Of all the hemi experts he seemed to be the real thing. 
Sorry to hear of your trouble hope it all works out, hope this helps.
 
Ward 66 426         
don't forget the exhaust gaskets or the special hemi bilbs
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 7:21 AM
Subject: RE: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

Cory, All you said is being done. My questions to the group was mainly directed for those of us who do own a hemi engine who might know something I dont since this is my first time building a Hemi. I am realizing that there are many different materials used on producing bearings and I simply dont have the expertise. Jim Rose from California just built A stroker engine and he told me that he used the Clevite V Series so, this is a first good comment on this issue. I thank you for your comment on Cometic, I was not aware of that and I will research it before making the purchase. Also, I didnt think of Moparts.com, this is a good idea as well but I have never been on that site and dont know anybody as opposed to this group which has given me by far the best advices since the past 9 years so, I am sticking to the group. Don Garlits is in my area but he doesnt operate a shop, He has a Museum now.

Daniel, Orlando

From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Cory
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 11:12 PM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: -> Hemi ~ Need expert's advise

 

  I didn't hear what happened to your engine but it sounds like you'll need a qualified machinist who can check everything out for you and make sure it all fits right and is properly balanced.  To be brutally honest, this isn't the list to be asking.  If you don't have any idea of where to take your engine locally I suggest you sign up on the Moparts.com message board and introduce yourself.  As for a local shop on either the Q&A or Racing Only board and you'll get plenty of help.  You could also look for a local Chrysler oriented car club and ask for references there.  For your application it doesn't really matter what gaskets and bearings you get as long as the do their job properly.  The Cometic stuff is expensive and I hear the head gasket can sometimes have water sealing problems, it's really more of a racing head gasket for high compression engines.
  Isn't Don Garlits' shop in your area?  He knows a thing or two about blown hemi's.
Good luck
Cory

Daniel Daigneault wrote:

 

Guys, again I need your help. As most of you know, The hemi in my car was blown (Is this a correct term???). I already purchased a new crank (Eagle 4340) as well 2 new rods (SCAT).

Now I need help from experts to determine which bearings and rings are the best for the engine. Im thinking of the followings;

         Head Gaskets: www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line 4.560 Part #C5447-040

         Top End Gaskets; www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021T (Minus Head Gaskets)

         Bottom End Gaskets; www.cometic.com  Street Pro Line Part #PRO1021B

         Total Seal GapLess rings http://www.totalseal.com/SearchByBore.aspx
I know nothing about rings. I need 4.500 Bore Rings (std size for 528 Hemis). I need to know which material to choose from

         Clevite Rod Bearings Part #695-CB1512   Part #695-CB527P I need to know which material to choose from
Part Number Key

*       H - High-Performance

*       HD - High-Performance bearing with dowel hole

*       HK - High-Performance bearing with moly/graphite coating

*       P - Standard Clevite 77 tri-metal bearing

*       N - High-Performance Narrowed for greater crankshaft fillet clearance

*       HG - High-Performance full angular grooved bearing

*       V - High-Performance with Lead Indium overlay (On Main Sets this indicates partial groove also)

*       VG - High-Performance with Lead Indium full angular grooved bearing

*       D - Bearing has a dowel hole

*       K - Tri-Armor coated bearing

*       X - Bearing has .001 more oil clearance than standard

*       XX - Bearing has .002 more oil clearance than standard

*       A or AL - Indicates Aluminum bearing material

         Clevite Main Bearings Part #695-MS876 or 695-MS481 or 695-MS972

I know I am asking a lot but for those of you who do know me, I really would like this to be the last time I have to do hard work on my hemi and any expert advice will help me make the best decision.

Thanks, Daniel, Orlando

_


#81448 From: "Terry" <tehoover@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 4:30 pm
Subject: RE: -> Big Daddy's
montour207
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

But don’t tell us where you are going to bury the bodies!!!!!!   The less we know the better!!!
LOL
Terry H

 


From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Paul M. Quintin Jr
Sent: Friday, November 06, 2009 8:29 AM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: -> Big Daddy's

 

 

Daniel;

  I am sorry to hear about that! I don't know what shop you are talking about, but I am hoping they are taking care of all repairs. And, you should give us the name of the shop, so that we don't ever go there!

  That leads me to rule #1 of owning a vintage Mopar - Never, EVER leave it somewhere out of your site.....

Hope the repairs go well.

Paul

 

 

Paul M. Quintin Jr.
HP/Agilent 5DX Consulting & Training Services
Apex, NC
PQUINTIN@NC.RR.COM
WWW.PAULQUINTIN.COM
Paul@PaulQuintin.com
Home Office 1-919-662-1811
Cell   1-919-210-1574
Skype  Paul.Quintin

 

 


From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Daigneault
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 10:43 PM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: -> Big Daddy's

 

YAP, that’s the one…

Make a very long story very short, an unknown somebody at the shop got a hold of the keys and took it for a joy ride and yes, I am livid. We now have to change the crank and 2 rods. That’s not counting rebalancing the new rotating assembly, change all bearings, rings, gaskets and so on and so on…

Daniel, Orlando

From: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Melhorn
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 8:18 PM
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: -> Big Daddy's

 

Daniel, is this the Hemi / epoxy fill oil leak motor? Holy cow, I'd be livid!! (or did you run it like you stole it?)

Ken Melhorn
'66 413 Wedge

|||||||||||||||||||o|||||||||||||||||||



--- On Wed, 11/4/09, Daniel Daigneault <dany527@embarqmail.com> wrote:


From: Daniel Daigneault <dany527@embarqmail.com>
Subject: RE: -> Big Daddy's
To: 66_67_dodge_chargers@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, November 4, 2009, 9:52 AM

 

Can’t Make it this year. Blew the engine in the car, I’m rebuilding it right now. Daniel, Orlando

From: 66_67_dodge_ chargers@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:66_67_ dodge_chargers@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Eric Marr
Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 2009 9:44 AM
To: 66_67_dodge_ chargers@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: -> Big Daddy's

 

Too far away.  Was at the museum in early 2007.  Very nice place and lots of interesting stuff.

Eric

--- On Tue, 11/3/09, Ken Westerlund <KWesterlund@ cfl.rr.com> wrote:


From: Ken Westerlund <KWesterlund@ cfl.rr.com>
Subject: -> Big Daddy's
To: 66_67_dodge_ chargers@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Tuesday, November 3, 2009, 6:49 PM

 

Anyone going to go to the Big Daddy's show this weekend in Ocala?
Regards,
Ken


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