Expanding on what Brian has said, cold idle problems are
often the result of improper air/fuel mixture. The cold start valve squirts
extra gas into the intake manifold to “choke” the engine until it warms up.
The temperature sensor gauges coolant temperature and the coolant temperature
switch gradually closes the cold start valve as the engine reaches operating
temperature. So you start by checking the temperature sensor and switch, as
Brian mentioned. But other factors can affect mixture as well.
All you said about symptoms was that the idle is erratic
during warm up and your father thinks the car runs sluggishly. Try to
determine if the mixture issue is too lean or too rich. You will get to the
solution faster.
Too lean a mixture during warm up - your engine should be
hard to start or will stall frequently after starting, it hesitates during
off-idle operation or accelerates poorly.
Too rich - you should experience a stumbling or galloping
engine; possibly even engine stall after a minute’s operation due to fouled
spark plugs. Also, do you smell gas from the exhaust or see black smoke?
Immediately upon starting, blip the accelerator. What
happens? Does idle speed fall below cold idle specs, then return to normal?
Probably too rich a mixture. If the engine hesitates or stalls as you blip
the pedal, mixture is likely too lean.
Lean mixture main culprits are, as Brian points out, air
leaks in the rubber and a faulty coolant temperature sensor or switch. Other
causes can be faulty o-rings on the injectors, clogged or faulty fuel
injectors, faulty or out of adjustment idle air stabilizer valve - even a leaking
or damaged valve cover gasket or front or rear crankshaft oil seal. Note that
a lot of these problems will mostly disappear after the motor has warmed up
and gaskets and seals seat better.
Too rich a mixture can be caused by leaking or sticking
open injectors, the cold start system not shutting down as the motor warms
up, faulty coolant temperature sensor or switch too high fuel pressure,
something clogging intake air (old, dirty air filter?), weak spark, or
incorrect ignition timing.
Bob S.
From:
318iE30@yahoogroups .com [mailto:318iE30@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of bjm2cv
Sent: Monday, September 07, 2009 3:20
To: 318iE30@yahoogroups .com
Subject: [318iE30] Re: Stupid Idle
When I hear about an idle problem with this car, I immediately think about
vacuum leaks or a sticking ICV. For the first one, you have to work through
all the hoses, clamps, etc. For the ICV, the first attempt is to usually free
it up with carburetor cleaner.
But you say the idle is only bad until the car warms up. That would lead me
to believe that the temperature sensor might be bad.
You already replaced the low pressure fuel pump. I suppose you could check
for fuel pressure. Again, if it's doing all right once warmed up, I doubt it
is fuel related. Perhaps the cold start injector is giving problems. That's
pretty easy to check.
Brian McCall
El Salvador
1985 318
2004 320i
--- In 318iE30@yahoogroups
.com, "dubbie8382" <dubbie8382@. ..> wrote:
>
> So I am new to here. My name is JD. I have an 85' 318I sedan. All stock.
So I have been fighting an idle problem since I got the car. I have put
enough new parts in it that the idle only erratic during the warm up cycle. I
have replaced ICV, starter, gaskets, plugs, valve adjustments and in tank
fuel pump. The car is timed as good as it can be. runs pretty good. My father
in law still seems to think it is a bit sluggish, I am not sure. This is my
first e30 and I love it. I just want it to run the way it should. I'm leaning
towards a fuel issue.
>
> THanks
> JD
>